Backcountry Fees In The Smokies?

Should the Great Smoky Mountain National Park charge backpackers for camping overnight in the park? According to an article published yesterday by National Parks Traveler, the answer is a resounding NO:

John Quillen, a Tennessean from Knoxville who fought to have the public comments on the fee proposal made public, says that by his calculation the comments were “almost 20 to 1 against the fee.”

Part of the concern was that the proposed fees, which range from a low of $4 per person per night to a high of a $10 registration fee plus $2.25 per night per person, could eclipse front-country campsite fees, which range from $14-$20 per night, depending on how many are in your group.

The Park obviously needs money to operate, and with no ability to collect money at the entrance (due to a 1936 Tennessee law), the Park doesn’t have these funds to generate the operating revenue that benefits the other major parks. So, maybe we should give the Smokies a break? Improved trail conditions and better management of the shelters and campsites would benefit us all, and the Great Smoky Mountain National Park is the most heavily traveled (and used) in the nation.

Yet as a frequent visitor to the park, I wonder if more user fees only encourage the Federal Government to take their money elsewhere – making it difficult to get the funding back to the Smokies when they really need it.

I expect that Park Superintendent Ditmanson would say no to that, but my prediction is that backpackers will eventually pay fees to camp overnight in the Smokies backcountry. I doubt it will be to the extent that backpackers pay user fees in the Whites (of New Hampshire), but I fully expect the day is coming. So enjoy the free camping while you have it. The Smokies backcountry is a great place – even at $4/night.

Winter – Once Again – At The Grand Canyon

The Mrs. and I just returned from a trip to the Grand Canyon, and if you haven’t seen it – the winter is a great time to go. There are fewer people, there’s no summer 100+ heat, and it’s fairly easy to book a room at the last minute – even on a weekend.

I made my first trip to the Canyon in 1996 during a three month cross-country roadtrip that put 17,000 miles on my car and had us touch all four corners of the Lower 48. We arrived on the North Rim in mid-summer with 104 degree heat and mobs of people in every direction. I’m embarrased to say that we didn’t hike a single mile on that trip.

After that experience, I longed for cooler temps and for a backpacking trip to the bottom of the Canyon. I returned in December 2002 to find snow at the South Rim and scant crowds three weeks before Christmas. We hiked 16.6 miles on that trip and stayed at both the Bright Angel and Indian Garden Campgrounds. The hike was on corridor trails which are heavily traveled – even in the off-season – but we enjoyed every minute of it.

When I returned to the Grand Canyon a few weeks ago, snow lingered once again along the 7300′ rim at Shoshone Point. And the canyon looked much as it did ten years earlier -massive, tranquil, and even dangerous as you stand on the unguarded rim.

If you haven’t seen it – you owe it to yourself in this life. It’s one of those fascinating places that (despite its great age) just never gets old.

Great Smoky Mountain National Park – And The Machoists Got Pelted

Since the early 90’s, some old Appalachian Trail thru-hikers that I know have maintained the tradition of an annual winter hike. As I detailed in “40 at 40”, the trip is never easy and is typically booked within a few weeks of the MLK holiday.

After a four year absence, I made a guest appearance during their three-day ramble of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park this year. It was mid-way through their hike when we met up at the Mt. Collins Shelter after the machoists had gotten pelted by hail for 30 minutes on Mt. LeConte at 6,593 feet. They then spent the rest of the day climbing to the Mt. Collins in a driving downpour. Well – some of them anyway. Half of the crew hitched a ride with a park ranger in to town and dried out over a hot meal. At least they showed up at the shelter with some beer that night – their penance for bailing out on the rain deluge.

But who am I to say? I only hiked 10 of the 35 miles this year (and only about 4000 of the 32,000 feet of elevation change on the route). And I admit that the rain stopped by the time that I hit the trail. Luck of the draw, I guess.. Anyway, here’s a few photos from the weekend:

See the full gallery on Posterous

Final Backcountry Shelter Renovated In The Smokies

I just read an article in The Washington Post that the final shelter in the Smokies was renovated at Laurel Gap Shelter which is the last of 15 shelters to be modified:

The work involved improved natural lighting, a cooking area to separate food odors from sleeping space; better bunk access; new roofs; masonry repair; and drainage upgrades.

Having hiked and stayed in shelters frequently in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park – I applaud the volunteers of the Friends of the Smokies, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club for their efforts. Here’s a shot of Ice Water Springs Shelter before the renovation (a 1992 photo):

Here’s a shot of Ice Water Springs Shelter after the renovation:

This effort took place over a number of years and is a major improvement from the days of the chain linked fence that used to cover the front of the shelters. 12 of the 15 shelters reside on the Appalachian Trail, so there is likely to be a steady stream of people to benefit from this modification. Well done volunteers!

The Appalachian Trail In Five Minutes

Five minutes doesn’t do the Appalachian Trail justice, but this is an interesting look at the hike. What is portrayed accurately is that for all the incredible views along the way (and there are many), there is plenty of “green tunnel” time – or moments where you are just making your way North on the 2100+ mile trail.

Green Tunnel from Kevin Gallagher on Vimeo.

Great Smoky Mountain National Park – 40 at 40

Five to ten years ago when I was younger and in better shape, I joined a group of former thru-hikers for a multi-day and often strenuous winter backpacking trip. The hike was appropriately dubbed the MLK trip since it usually occurred on or around the three-day Martin Luther King weekend.

The “M.O.” of the MLK trip was (and continues to be) a 30-38 mile mega-hike, preferrably in snow, and always spanning four days. Typically we left town after work, fought traffic to some Mexican restaurant – then searched for a cheap hotel room near the trailhead. By midnight, the packs were loaded and some frosty beverages were consumed. The Mojo was strong, and yes there is energy in the wilderness.

Since we live in the South, the MLK trip typically took us to the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. It has some of the highest elevations east of the Mississippi and with Clingman’s Dome at 6643 feet – the highest point on the Appalachian Trail. At these elevations, snow is common in January – so our major objective was met.

The trips were always epic, the camaraderie was always solid. But I confess that I bowed out of the annual event a few years back. The body doesn’t deliver like it used to – especially on such short notice. I now prefer my winter trips shorter and more knee friendly. Yet the nostalgia lives on and if the trail Gods are willing –I may sneak in a night with the MLK hikers this year. Their annual event continues and they have 40 at 40 in the works – 40 miles at 40 years. I crossed that milestone a while back, but maybe it’s time to make it yours. Here’s your motivation …. a video from one of our trips in 2006. Enjoy …. have a great Holiday …. and happy trails.

BirdShooter

Benton MacKaye Trail – Section Two

Just did a hike on the Benton MacKaye Trail this past weekend between Bryson Gap and the Toccoa River. Granted … it was Thanksgiving Weekend, but I was shocked at the number of day-hikers that were visiting the suspension bridge at the Toccoa River. It was within an hour of sunset, and there were 40+ people on the trail and/or hanging out at the river. Guess the word is out on this place. Here’s a few pics from the trip.

The jam packed trailhead. It was a log jam on the one-lane forest road that leads to this place.

The tents are up, firewood is collected. Time for a brew and some dinner.

Our campsite on the Toccoa River. This is one of four primary sites near the suspension bridge. All were occupied during our visit.

Glenn (aka The Helmet) on the suspension bridge over the Toccoa River.

View from the suspension bridge.

Headed southbound on the Benton MacKaye Trail toward Bryson Gap. There were so many hunters out this morning that it sounded like WW III in the valley below the trail to the right.

End point of the hike at Bryson Gap. There’s a nice campsite down the hill to the right (if you are headed southbound on the trail) or you can camp here in the gap. A spring is nearby – about 200 to 300 feet off the trail.

Follow this link for more information on this and other hikes on the Benton MacKaye Trail.

Spectacular North Dakota Hikes – Bring the Dog

For those of you longing for a “Best Hikes With Dogs – North Dakota” book, wait no longer. Susan Wefald, recently released her guidebook, “Spectacular North Dakota Hikes – Bring the Dog.” No word on why the good folks at Mountaineer Books didn’t get to Susan first (as they don’t have a North Dakota book yet) but here’s an article published in the Bismark Tribune with more details on her latest hiking publication:

The book is a profile of the best places to go hiking across the state, covering 50 hikes organized by eight regions. Of the 50 hikes, 43 allow leashed dogs to accompany the walker, which was a good thing for Wefald whose trusted goldendoodle, Sandy, accompanied her on her adventures and took a starring role in the publication.

“Sandy is such a special part of my hiking experiences,” Wefald said. “I knew other dog owners would enjoy learning about all of the wonderful places they can go hiking with their dogs.”

As part of her position on the PSC, Wefald drove across the state for 16 years, and in that time she saw many hiking opportunities. Unfortunately, she never had a chance to stop.

“As I was driving around, I would see all these state parks that I really wanted to stop at,” Wefald said. “And I never had the time.”
Retirement changed all that, and Wefald suddenly had plenty of time to pursue her passion. She and her husband, Bob Wefald, enjoy hiking not just across the state, but across the nation and even other countries. As they explored different parks and trails, Wefald noticed a lack of information to accompany the trails in North Dakota.

“If we would go to Oregon, I would get the hiking book for Oregon,” Wefald said. “I realized that there really was no book like that for North Dakota.”

That prompted Wefald to embark on writing her own North Dakota hiking book, a process that involved not only visiting and hiking trails across the state, but compiling research and writing about her experiences. Wefald would head out with Sandy in tow, bringing along a sack lunch and her notebook to hike and to record her experiences.

“As soon as I got home (from a hike) I would type (my notes) up on my computer, and then I’d have that rough draft,” Wefald said. “Then I’d go on another hike.”

As she hiked, Wefald would look for “spectacular hikes” that either offered a special view, varied terrains or a chance to experience North Dakota’s natural prairie.

“I think it’s important for people to see all the beauty North Dakota has to offer,” Wefald said.

With each hike in the book, Wefald includes basic information on the trail, practical information on terrain and elevation, a trail map, area attractions and information, and her own personal notes on the hike.

“I learned a lot by writing the book,” Wefald said. “And I included details that I thought would be interesting to the general public.”
Wefald also worked with the North Dakota Parks and Recreation Department to gather information about various state parks and trails.
“She came in early on to see what help we could give her,” public information officer Gordon Weixel said.

Overall, the task of researching, hiking, writing and editing the book took about 2 and 1/2 years, and she received the last proof in the middle of July. The editing process and the process of developing uniformly styled maps for each trail, sometimes requiring Wefald and map-maker, Tom Marple, to start from nothing more than a Google Maps image, took almost as long as the original writing process. Those challenges, Wefald said, were the most difficult part of producing the book.

But she said it was all worth it.

“I was committed to this book,” Wefald said. “You know, you can’t stop in the middle.”Commitment, and selecting a topic one is fond of, she said, are essential for all who wish to write a book. “Pick a topic that you really like,” Wefald said. “Because you’re going to spend a lot of time on it.” Wefald will be signing copies of the book from 1 to 3 p.m. Saturday at Barnes & Noble.

The Appalachian Trail – “No fun, No finish”

National Parks Traveler recently published an article titled Hiking The Appalachian National Scenic Trail: It Takes More Heart than Heel”.
and it was stated that …

“The key to success for young people is to keep the distractions down.
The more you stay on the trail, the better. If you go into town too
much, you’re spending money, maybe on alcohol, and you’re not hiking.”

Well – you definitely spend money in town, and some thru-hikers definitely throw back a beer or two while there (this one included) – but exploring the trail towns along the A.T. is a big part of the experience. In fact, some of my most memborable moments were in the trail towns with other thru-hikers. My personal favorites? Hot Springs, Damascus, Harper’s Ferry, Gorham, Monson and Hanover (back in the days when the fraternity houses let you crash on the floor). I even enjoyed Gatlinburg (which most thru-hikers would be embarrassed to admit) – and I enjoyed it a lot.

You want the A.T. experience? Then get distracted. Take a side hike up Siler Bald, go swimming in the pool at Caledonia State Park, take the gondola ride down to Killington – and yes, stay a night or two in a trail town. The Appalachian Trail is not meant to be a race – it’s meant to be a life experience. There is an old A.T. saying …

“No rain, no pain, no Maine!”

Well there’s a lot of truth to that, but it should also be stated – “No fun, No finish” because you probably will not have the “heart” or the “heel” to walk 2000+ miles if you don’t enjoy it. Do do you want a foot race or a life experience that you will cherish the rest of your life? Stop and smell the roses – at every vista, at every hostel, and yes in every trail town – if you can afford it. Ten years from now, you’ll be glad that you did.

BirdShooter
GA – ME 1994
www.n2backpacking.com

Hiking With Kids – A Checklist Before You Go

Hiking with your children can be great experience for all of you, but it can also be miserable if you don’t prepare well. Stave off grouchy kids with this checklist:

Choose the trail carefully. Not all trails are appropriate for all ages, or all kids. A flat three-mile hike may be challenging but fun for your best friend’s six-year-old and too much for yours. Guidebooks will often provide some idea of a trail’s difficulty level, and park rangers are also a great source of information.

Bring extra water. Dehydrated children are grouchy children, and dehydration can be dangerous. Kids have a tendency to spill their water bottles, so be sure you have backups and remind them to drink water regularly.

Bring healthy snacks. Hungry children are also grouchy children, and kids (and adults) may not be able to make it all the way to lunch without food. Healthy snacks like dried fruit, granola bars, apples, little wax-wrapped cheeses and nuts will help keep kids going without complaint until lunchtime.

Make sure their boots are broken in. Blisters are a major cause of misery and whining on hiking trips. Ideally, your kid’s shoes or boots should be broken in before you leave. Tying boot laces either too loosely or too tightly can cause blisters, so ask the clerk at the outdoor store how to tie the laces when you buy the boots.

Prepare for the weather. Weather can be unpredictable, so bring rain gear, sweaters, hats and sunscreen. You don’t want cold or sunburned kids.

Don’t forget the First Aid kit. Despite your best efforts, blisters, scrapes, and bug bites will inevitably happen. A small First Aid kit with items like moleskin, athletic tape, antibacterial ointment, bug bite lotion, band-aids and tweezers will help you deal with most problems.

Know what to do in an emergency. Find out before you leave: will your cell phone work? How close is the nearest ranger station if you’re hiking in a park? What should you do if your child has a severe allergic reaction? Talk to your child’s doctor if your child has special medical concerns.

Hiking with your kids can create unforgettable memories for everyone. Make sure those memories are the good kind of “unforgettable” and prepare well.

Melissa Barton is a freelance writer and editor, specializing in science and travel writing. Her credits include Geotimes, Transitions Abroad, Student Health 101 and other publications. Visit her online at Rosetta Stones Freelancing (http://www.rosettastones.net).